Monumentos

Cuando llegas a Moscú por primera te empuja un vértigo mudo, los espacios son extrañamente amplios y todas las calles dan la sensación de ir en circulo. El silencio de esas plazas a pesar de estar abarrotadas de gente, el síntoma de cielo esquizofrénico con nubes que abren y cierran el cielo durante todo el día, la grieta estética entre la gente joven y la gente vieja.

 

Llegue con un instrucciones impresas en papel bond al  aeropuerto, mi amiga Olga a la que había ido a visitar llegaba tres días después que yo, pero me había escrito en una nota paso a paso lo que tenía que hacer para llegar a la casa de Su madre en el norte de las ciudad. Primero en el aeropuerto caminar a la salida y tomar un tren, caminar por unos pasillos, cambiar al metro, cambiar en la quinta parada (me puso el nombre pero mis conocimientos nulos del cirílico hicieron obsoletos todas las guías que había impreso) bajar del metro, girar a la derecha, buscar la línea de otro color, hacer trasbordo bajarme en la cuarta parada caminar a la derecha subir y subir, seguir subiendo hasta que parezca que vas horizontal, salir por la floristería, llegar a un complejo de edificios iguales sacados de un video de propaganda de la URSS, encontrar el tercer edificio, poner la clave del timbre, soy Daniela en ruso, puerta, clave del ascensor, puerta derecha, otra puerta pegada a la primera puerta  y Valentina, la madre de mi amiga Olga mi anfitriona y en este punto de la vida la mejor compañero de Té que he conocido.

 

El escenario no es una cosa que se crea al azar, se va construyendo como la columna vertebral del mundo y todos los objetos se encuentra y crean esta laberinto de formas, un letrero, una silla rota en la acera, una vitrina que nadie ve. Queda evidente por las mañanas a la siete y cuarenta a.m. cuando tomo el puente de la A7 en mi camino al trabajo,  todas las luces de la autopista no son producto del trafico y de nuestro mal gusto sino de esa metáfora que se ve de lejos, un cuadro impresionista, todos los carros que paran de golpe parecen un charco de sangre del brazo de un gigante tirado a las orillas del Llobregat. El viaje es poder ganarle al turismo, y nunca somos menos turistas que cuando repetimos maniacamente cada día la ruta que nos lleva a eso que hacemos siempre.

 

Algo me recordó a Guayaquil en Moscú nada que tenga que ver con su arquitectura sino con la contradicción, los tiempos contradictorios. Lenin enterrado al lado de la catedral, eso de que la catedral sea una replica exacta de la que el mismo Stalin tiro abajo no hace mucho tiempo y que transformo en una piscina gigante, los muros del Kremlin pasando de lado por una lado de la plaza roja como si fuera una intromisión. Hay veces que uno siente que está en una ciudad en la que está pasando algo , pero cuando estuve en Moscú sentí que estaba en una ciudad en la que estaba pasando algo en todos los tiempos al mismo tiempo es un sentimiento propio de una novela de ciencia ficción a lo mejor son los prejuicios que le dejo la propaganda de la guerra fría a nuestra generación, o esa ostentación de ver tantos carros de lujo mal parqueados (nunca he visto tantos hummers en vida tan mal perqueados) al lado de carretas, la música clásica que todas los músicos en el metro y el punk raposo con el que se pelean con el mundo, es un poco de todo como lo son todos los “timelines” al mismo tiempo pasando a la misma vez, como dibujos en los que les dibujas en encima, una imagen en cientos de dimensiones.

Un claro ejemplo, Stalin construyo las siete hermanas siete edificios casi idénticos ubicados en el centro de Moscú de manera que la imagen se llega a convertir en algo omnipresente, están situadas para que se puedan ver en lugares diferentes y su uso no es institucional en todas las hermanas, hay una de pisos, otra de hoteles, para que se note que la institución está en todos lados. Está claro que la URSS entendió bien la importancia de los símbolos y que en general cada edificio dialoga con los otros con la gente y con ellos mismos, no noté en sus demoliciones y reconstrucciones un atisbo de pena por la memoria histórica, quizás derrumbar y reconstruir y volver y pasar la realidad por el embudo de la humanidad, ha creado este dialogo autentico y esta es una de las buenas lecciones que tuve de mi viaje a Moscú y  donde inevitablemente tuve que unir a esta ciudad con Guayaquil. De que si estoy de acuerdo o no que se ponga una estatua en Leon Febres Cordero en Guayaquil la ciudad donde crecí y que tanto odio y amo. Yo nunca entendí Guayaquil, quizás porqué no soy de una familia guayaca de cepa o porqué mis padres son manabas y los manabas son de esos pueblos nómadas que sienten nostalgia ciega por su origen aunque hicieron la elección consiente de abandonarlo. Pero crecí en esta ciudad desde muy niña hasta que me fui a la Universidad, así que incluso se puede decir que soy guayaca y conservo una memoria de Urdesa Central en los noventas, cuando vuelvo me doy cuenta que borro la humedad de mis recuerdos, y que Guayaquil se va reconstruyendo sobre si misma. Mi barrio antes era una replica de los suburbios gringos donde predominaba el art deco, luego se convirtió en un apilado de rejas y hoy un muro lo cruza todo y no hay manera de saber como son las casas, ni quien vive ahí. Años atrás el municipio pasó por las calles de Urdesa haciendo una raya roja en el piso de donde deberían terminar las casas, a nosotros nos pasaba justo atrás del muro, pero cuenta la gente que hubo quien le paso la rayo por la mitad del comedor. Así estaba pasando la paranoia le estaba ganando al espacio público.

Tenemos un municipio que tiene como función que cumplamos una imagen, imponiendo símbolos, por un lado un mono gigante es decir es súper obvio poner un mono, si no fuera porqué he vivido durante años bajo el ojo plano de los socialcristianos pensaría que es producto del humor negro poner un mono protegiendo el túnel del cerro santa Ana. Algo que creo que yo si he aprendido y no ha aprendido el alcalde de Guayaquil es que las ciudades no son un ideal sino que son lo que son, el peso de su existencia invade todas las formas de nuestra vida mientras las caminamos representan habría que partir de ahí y desde ese mismo lugar me parece que si necesitamos una estatua de Febres Cordero, y poner un parque gigante alrededor y una piscina publica sin rejas donde nos podamos bañar y ganarle a todo el cemento del que nos dejo embarrado o agradecerle a su memoria a los que eso les va. Somos guayacos y cuando se murió al man estábamos listos para el diván.

El paisaje al final de cuentas se convierte de lo que hacemos de el. En mi estadía en Rusia, vi por toda la ciudad de Moscú y San Petersburgo jóvenes casi niños protestando, en pequeños grupos, solos, sobre el cierre de un canal de dibujos animados por censura del gobierno bailando mientras cantaban voz en cuellos sobre un busto de Tolstoy, viendo lo que le paso a las pussy riot hacer eso en Rusia es un acto de valentía. Al fin de cuentas me parece que necesitamos más monumentos y símbolos, baratos que hay muchas otras cosas en las que gastar. Para tener una vida llena de lugares donde podamos ir a existir y mandar a la mierda todo lo que está mal, resistir.

 

 

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